Olathe Rotary Travels with Heart to Heart International to Guatemala, November 2009

The Olathe Rotary Club, which supports Heart to Heart International and "Elizabeth's Kids" (Deb's House Orphanage), sends club members to Guatemala once or twice a year to help with water sustainability and community development efforts.

This blog will report on the team's sojourn near Lago de Atitlan during the week of November 4th through the 11th, 2009.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Following the HHI/Rotary Guatemala 2009 Blog

Hi Everyone Who Enters Our Blog,

For some reason, the order of the days became confused at the end. Day Six comes last even though Day Seven is our last post as stated. Sorry for the confusion.

Sincerely Yours,

Michael Ashcraft

Monday, November 9, 2009

Day 6 - The Last Day on the Job

Comparatively, today was an easy day. We didn't head to the boat until 830 arriving at San Pedro around 915. The boat cutout shortly after leaving dock. We all made a joke of it, but nobody relished the thought of being struck in Lago de Atitlan's muck. The green slim and vegetable matter that had accumulated on the western edge of the lake seemed to have either grown or spread much further eastwardly toward Panajachel over the last couple of days.

On the trip over, I took the following photo attempting to capture the terrace farming on the slops surrounding the lake. If you look closely you can see the different colored patch work for various plantings and the unnatural straight lines that separate privately maintained plots.














Once we arrived in San Pedro, we headed back to the school (command central). Wilma and I took a "tuk tuk" to save our wherry feet. Tuk tuks are commonly found in this part of the world as well as Asia and Africa. It is a very stable three-wheeled scooter that local drivers decorate based on their personal tastes. It costs a few pennies over a dollar per person no matter how far you go. Two or three passengers at a time can squeeze in when needed. Wilma paid this time. Thank you Wilma. The name comes from the sound the horn makes as they weave in and out of traffic and announce their intentions.

Once the team got organized for the day, we headed out for our last major chore. You may recall that a couple of days ago, I mentioned the ONIL wood burning stow. (I misspelled it at the time.) This device cost about $100 and reduces the need for wood by about 75%. It is simple to construct if only one gringo does it. When there are four of us, discusses can be lively. Cheryl offers the following report on one team's efforts. The nearly completed stove is pictured after that.





We headed back to the dock around 130PM and waited for the other teams to catch up. While there, Cheryl visited with a group of men who were trying to skim the muck from the lake that dirtied the shore. She said that one fellow told her that they were very frustrated. They have been skimming the docking area in San Pedro for the last 25 days and have not been able to get ahead of the thick slim that seems to coat everything near the beach. We didn't have the heart to tell them that the greasy film stretched for miles. Their efforts seemed valiant but futile given the scope and the source of the problem. It will take a new way of thinking and time before much will change.

Jim wondered what would happen if the lake reached a tipping point before a solution could be found. What if the lake could no longer sustain life? He worried that if Lago de Atitlan gained a reputation as a dead, polluted lake, the tourists would stop coming and the local economy might then collapse. A very sobering thought, but one that seemed plausible to all of us.

The rest of the day we spent relaxing, debriefing, repacking and reflecting in our own way. Don Jorge ("Don" is the moniker of high respect in Guatemalan culture.) and HHI treated us to a live native Mayan band. We ate dinner with our local contacts, listened and danced the local jig. This short clip will give you an idea of the event.



We'll be on the road early tomorrow to Guatemala City and you may not hear from us until late in the evening.

Paz

Day 7 Plus - Our Last Post

This is going to be a long posting because we had planned for it to be two entries covering our last work/fun day and our farewell thoughts. But like so many plans, we had to be flexible. Access to the web cannot always be assured even in a big modern city like Guatemala City. Let me start with our farewell to Panajachel and our visit to the old capital before arriving in the current capital of Guatemala City.

TUESDAY'S TRANSITION

As we have come to appreciate and respect, "Don" Jorge offered us another intriguing glimpse into this magical land today.

We were all up earlier than we may have wanted to be to load the van and be on the road by 630AM. We were unevenly divided between two vans with Jon, Wilma, Jim, Cheryl and me with one driver and the rest of the team with another. The trip seemed like it was straight up from the lake to the crest of the mountain rim. It went quickly. A little too quickly for some.

As the drivers played tag with each other and the many cars, trucks, tuk tuks, motorcycles, bikes, dogs and people on the switch-backed ascent, the coolness of the day higher in the mountains became apparent. We were a little worried because Jorge started the day in shorts and a thin shirt. The rest of us were a little less comfortable with the mist in the air than he seemed to be.

After about 75 minutes though we made our first stop. Jorge offered us a brief side trip to IXIMCHE, the second great capital of the Mayan Empire.

We learned that the Mayans had the largest empire in the new world for close to 1500 years. Today it is mostly lost to history but it had a presence to rival Rome. We visited the site only briefly and were able to quietly witness two native Mayan ceremonies near the ruins of a high temple.

Jorge asked us to step softly and not take pictures. He explained that one gathering appeared to be a family and their young child and the second an older man probably seeking health advice.

The following video report from Judi gives you a view of the central court of IXIMCHE. Notice the structure in the background of the last frame with a huge leafy tree growing out from the top. It is similar to the temple we saw where the ceremonies were being preformed.




The race to Guatemala City picked up where it had paused. Our drivers were trying to get us to the official Rotary farewell with the Guatemalan national club in the capital by 1PM. Fortunately, it was close to the hotel where we were staying, but it was a trip. Between the construction, the check points, the traffic, the winding roads and the diesel fumes, motion can have it's effect. I'll leave that part of the story to each team member to tell in their own way in there own time. Nothing bad really. I guess you'd say though I would be a good one to offer empathy from earlier in the week.

We made it time, of course. Time enough to refresh and make new acquaintances. Judi and Jon were invited to the head table pictured below. Judi also spoke to the club on behalf of the team and did an excellent job.



How do I know she did and excellent job? Well, let me tell you. Each club has its own personality. Any Rotarian knows that. The GC club is no different. They pack in a full program for most meetings and often run over an hour. While listening to the presenter, any presenter, the members talk and carry-on until someone taps their water glass with a clang or two to hush the murmur for the moment. This seems to go on constantly. Of the the five or six speakers at today's meeting (including the club's President), Judi was the only one who didn't require the clanging of the proverbial glass to re-establish decorum. It was (quiet) impressive.

Another of the more charming rituals of the GC club was to hold a brief nine square bingo contest to encourage attendance and promote fellowship. The big winner today happen to be our Theresa. Pictured here with her booty - a bottle of 12 year old Johnny Walker, a club mug (made in Kentucky) and 200 Quetzal (1 Q equals about 12 cents).



After the luncheon, some of us went to visit Juan Carlos' home and water filter factory. In a staging area just outside his front door, the team was delighted to see several hundred filters ready of shipping. Jon and Jorge soon turned the conversation to their next trip to Lago de Atitlan early next year and how best to handle the next shipment of filters.

This evening, Jorge treated us to a most pleasant meal. After visiting with Juan Carlos and a few other dignitaries, we sat sharing some final thoughts. We each shared in turn our perspectives, our laughs, our hopes. Jon said it quite well. He said he hoped that this experience had been not only worthwhile for us, but in a very real sense transformational. He hoped that we were able to see how just a little money and even in less time, we could see how we could change the world for the people near Lago de Atitlan.


OUR FAREWELL TO YOU

Reflecting on these days, I wonder if the next Mayan Empire, that some say will reemerge in 2012, will come to the aid of America 500 or 1000 years from now? Of course some will say that this is frivolous conjecture, but it raises an interesting point.

If we do not help our neighbors in Guatemala and elsewhere within America and across the world today, who will help us in our future need? Are we planting the seeds of "social capital" among the world's communities, the better angels of our nature guided by reciprocal trust and respect? Only time will tell.

However, if history has taught us one thing, it is that no empire lasts forever. Only the compassion of humanity is eternal. If we loss sight of that promise, anarchy and the tyranny of despair and fear prevail. Of course, that future history is not written yet. Groups like HHI and Rotary along with many compassionate people like Jon and Jorge are standing firm. But this cause, their cause, needs our help.

On Wednesday, we headed back to our corn flakes, and mini-vans, and 9 to 5 routines. By the time of this posting, I trust we will all be safely home.

The big question seems to be, "Has this experience changed us?" If you polled the team today, the answer would most likely be yes. Dan has already expressed an interest in going back for a third time. Andrea is heading for India and would like to spend more time there. Scott and Anthony worked in India last year. Jim was in the Peace Corp. I could go on about this team.

We all have been touched by this effort and want to do more. I'm sure we all will in our way. But how about a month, or year from now? We can not say for sure except we know that Heart to Heart International and Rotary will still be pushing the simple premise of "Service Above Self."

We will tell you that we feel differently about the world today. We have learned a lot. My understanding of a proud and good people has increased tremendously. Our hope is that they will flourish. But we wonder about the change? We hope you are wondering too.

GOODBYE

I asked the team to suggest our final, farewell photo. There are two that I like. The first was taken on our first day at the boat launch. We are pointing into the future for our trip to Cerro de Oro. It was a good day.










Jorge suggested the following photo and the team agreed. So, from the back row: Dan, Scott, Anthony, Judi, Theresa, Jim, Jon; and the front: Cheryl, Wilma, "Don" Jorge, Ted and Michael (me). "We thank you for traveling with us. Paz"










Post Script: We had hundreds of stories we could have told. These few give a sampling of our thoughts and hopes for Heart to Heart International, Rotary and Guatemala. Ask use anytime. Join Rotary, get your club to do more. Volunteer to Heart to Heart International. Make a difference to the next child you seek.

Thank you.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

The Other Day Five


While I was pontificating on the blog earlier today, the team was doing the real work. They spent the day in Patanatic which is only about 1000 feet from Panajachel as the crow flies. Unfortunately, that would be straight up. The team spent much of the day inspecting filtration systems installed in this village last March. The hope was that they'd be in full use in sanitary condition. The team was upbeat but reported that many of the units were not being maintained as hoped. They spent much of their time reinforcing the importance of cleaning the filters and straining the water. It will take time for some of the local inhabitants to learn. Few of them have much formal education and the subtleties of hygiene do not come easily.

In addition to checking established filters, we visited the future site of a community clinic.
Dan is with EWB (Engineers Without Boarders), and his "submission" is to measure and assess the structural integrity of the addition HHI wants to add to the Community Building pictured above. He has spent many hours with local village leaders and is eager to report that two more stories can easily be added. Not surprising. What we've been impressed by is that as you move around the various locales, many, many structures are built to be expanded. They may look like sin with exposed re-bar and half completed concrete block walls, but the community is always building or expanding as money and need allow.

The second photo is the view from the clinic when it is completed. The beauty of the lake is apparent. A river flows from this inlet to the lake called Rio San Francisco. The clinic will be on the future second floor with living quarters on the top. MidAmerica Nazarene University (MNU Olathe, KS) nursing students are working hard to raise funds to build the compound and plan to staff it in years to come.









LIFT AND LOAD

A second big effort today was the collection and installation for concrete wash basins/sinks. The following video of Scott offering the inaugural hand washing gives you an idea of the challenge. These utilities weight about 500 pounds and are permanently set in communal and family compound settings. They are often painted in festive colors that reflects the reverence for "el agua."




JORGE'S DAD

I wanted to share a tender moment about Jorge and his story. His parents were poor and he came from a fairly large family. His dad learned how to read when he was 18 by listening to a radio program. As he got older, he promised himself that his children would escape the dread through education. Jorge was one of those successes. Jorge went on to be Director of Guatemalan Children International before joining HHI. Two good men indeed.





MAYAN FAMILIES

Late in the evening we were invited into the family home of Juan Carlos. Juan is the President of the Guatemala City club and his father-in-law owns a home here in Panajachel. The home is in a 12 family compound that has one very unusual feature. Juan's FIL ran a drilling company and when attempting to find a well, discovered a hot spring instead. Today that spring feeds the communal swimming pool. A nice touch after a long day, if you know what I mean.

During this gathering, the team was introduced to Sharon and Dwight Poage pictured below. They run a foundation that supports many community efforts including their own water filtration work. It was nice to see others attempting to support clean water resources in the region. They were a gracious couple and we enjoyed swapping stories about the challenges and rewards of our work.





Paz from the team and a late me.

Ugly American?

Having stayed at the hotel for the day, I was able to see a side of life here that otherwise we would have missed. I am going to offer a personal perspective that none of our team needs to endorse and it's not about them. For that matter, I suspect their world view has grown immensely as mine has.

My room is on a second floor, open air veranda. Outside my door are several easy chairs and a small table. Today two America woman with a translator met with a series of area woman to examine and purchase their handcrafts. (I almost said that the translator was local, but am less sure of that.)

For several hours as I worked on our previous blog posting, I overheard their negotiations if that is what you want to call them. The native craft-workers were all dressed in native garb and the translator made sure none of them spoke English. As the two Americans reviewed their work, mostly jewelry, they would comment on various values and resale potential. They were looking not for themselves, but for their customers back in the USA.

I must tell you that I am conflicted. Part of me understands and maybe even appreciates that these two Americans were really helping the local economy by buying these wares. The native producers seem to think the same thing, but I must tell you I wonder if they really understand the dynamics in these exchanges or are just being polite.

As I reflect on the average monthly income for most of the local population (about $50), I cringe as I listen to the Americans debate the merits of cutting the offering price by a penny or two. They aren't harsh, just cavalier about the beauty and needs of Guatemala.

Of course, I am not a good one to pass judgment. Jorge warned us that if we go shop, we should be prepared to haggle. The vendor will offer the maximum price and it's up to us to decide from there. He did suggest that the local economy would benefit from every dollar we spend. I'm not thinking my two American buyer-friends heard Jorge's message.

Paz

Day 5 - I'm Alive but Do They Thrive?

Let me offer that yesterday, it came on quickly, it was rough, and I'm resting today.

The real story though is what the Guatemalan people experience everyday. Let me start with a common question we hear. "Lago de Atitlan is a huge fresh water lake. How could these people possibly need water when this resource sits before them?"

Lago de Atitlan is approximately 20 by 25 Kilometers according to Aura. And, it is very deep. That depth is caused by the lakes altitude coupled with the retention of the volcanic rim. The water drains straight down and feeds underground rivers and steams closer to the coast. While large, it is not to the scale of the Great Lakes and there is no surface current that mixes the floating muck except maybe the occasional breeze.

THE FRIEND TO BE FEARED

The first picture we want to share with you is of how this muck accumulates. In this case near the San Pedro (Eastern) side of the lake. Anthony then reports from the dock to give you a taste of what we see every day and the locals live with year round.




The visual impact is great, but try to imagine the ambiance based on the source of nutrients that feed this rich green algae and plant matter that now covers about a third of the lake. (My estimate.) All of the runoff from the mountains comes into the lake. The earth is rich but the soil is not deep. Septic tanks are limited to the few wealthy households in the region, so the (human) waste is great.

(As a side note, we haven't seen much livestock except for the chickens that each family raise. We have seen people fishing from the shore and the occasional fisherman in a boat setting jugs and hooks out near the edge of the muck ring.)



A huge part of our efforts focus on helping the local families develop a sense of what they can do and to foster a sense of trust with the weird gringos in the red shirts and the white buckets they bring. Jorge and Jon have pretty much established the program regionally, but indigenous people here do not have a high degree of trust in things that smack of "government". I'll just suggest you go to Wikipedia and research their history in the later half of the 20th century.

For us to build trust, we attempt to be as open and honest with people as possible. Jorge and Aura are perfect ambassadors, but they are of this land. When you look like me or Jon or Scott or Jim and tower three or four heads about the tallest man, you look strange indeed. Some of the children are quizzical, but many seem to hold a bit of fearful amazement. In this next video, Theresa and Jon engage several children in this one hamlet and allow them to build the "magic" water bottle. They are captivating and captivated by the moment, don't you think?




Of course the filters are very effective, but they have their limits. I wanted to show you the following photo of Theresa working with a family on the best use of the filter. She shows Mom and her inspectors how to filter out the larger particulate matter even before the water hits the pre-filtration holding basin.

This simple step can improve the effectiveness of the filters tremendously allowing them to maintain a better flow for longer. It's funny how teaching the kids in any culture helps the parents remember the best practice for any family chore.

Please also notice the jug they are using to pour the water. It is a beautiful blue and white ceramic. These jugs are common but also an indication of wealth and reverence for "el aqua." Many of these families have little - a roof and a bed if they're lucky. But they need water to survive and clean water to thrive.




Our final report is from Jim. You may have to adjust your monitor to see the water because of the glare, but it gives you a sense of our travel each day. It is an open air boat and with that comes the spray. It is a cool mist, but one we readily try to avoid in our comings and goings about the lake.

Jim talks about the 104 filter we set up yesterday. I don't have a good count, but let me suggest that these filters serve many people. When we think of families in the States, that usually includes, Mom, Dad, two kids and a dog. In this locale, most families live in mini-compounds with separate hobbles for Mom and Dad and kids, and brother and wife and kids, and sister and husband and kids and so forth. I suspect, I hope, they offer the capacity to as many as possible. Aura says they do, but it varies from enclave to enclave.



A ROTARY MOMENT

Before we close this entry, I wanted to share a picture of Wilma with one of the Rotary Clubs in the region. It is customary of clubs around the world to share pendents and Wilma is sharing hers with a few representatives from a club that asked for an impromptu visit yesterday. (As least I hope I get this story right.)

According to Jon, these guests had heard of HHI's water filter distribution efforts in the Lago de Atitlan area and the came down from a town about 20 miles north of here. No small trip on roads made of dirt, stone and grit. They wanted to make introductions and express their interest in having the program expanded to their community. Jon was thrilled.

Our visitors were hopeful and gracious (and wanting). In many ways, this is a testament to HHI's efforts to build social trust. The word is out! HHI and Rotary are to be trusted. They (we) are here to give to, not take away from, their future.




Paz

(PS My apologies if my verbiage is a bit off the mark today. My compatriots are out doing more good work and spell check only assists a confused mind, not a dull one like mine.)

Saturday, November 7, 2009

My Weather Turned Blue

I won't bore you with the details, but after lunch it became apparent I needed to stay behind for the return trip to San Pedro. The team will be returning a little earlier than expected to meet with a unplanned, but most welcomed, visit from local Rotarians.

My break will give me a chance to catch up on a few observations and impressions that the team has collected so far. First, Ted has asked me to correct a statement I made in my first blog entry. While he joined the Club in Canada several years ago and has many dear friends there, he is now part of the NJ contingent. He along with Scott, Anthony and Cheryl make the up the NJ Rotarian "Fantastic Four."

Cheryl, pictured here, has managed to charm many of the local children. I think she too has been charmed.




While this is a little disjointed, I wanted to show you a picture from the lake surface. This was taken as we traveled to San Padro yesterday. The bluff you see is several miles away and surround the lake with three higher inactive volcanic peeks. It looks a little higher than the 100 feet that Jorge claims.

This last photo is of a taxi full of young women on their way to the docks. While not a preferred mode by most American standards, it sure beat walking up (or down) those steep grades when you could afford it.




For the most part, roadways are narrow and made up of cobble stone, pavers, gravel, dirt (mud), or some type of mix. The closer you get to the city center the more solid the bed.

I've got to close now. If the day grows better, I'll try again.

Paz